Family 8-Day Motorbike Adventure: Hanoi to the Mountains

When we signed up for the 8-day motorbike tour through northern Vietnam with Cuong’s Motorbike Adventure, we knew we were in for something special. What we didn’t anticipate was just how much our family—kids, parents, luggage in tow—would be swept up in this rich tapestry of scenery, culture and two-wheel freedom.

Day 1: Hanoi to Ba Be

We met our guide, Khánh, in Hanoi just after breakfast. The bikes were prepped, helmets fitted for everyone, and we headed north, leaving the bustle of the capital behind as we made our way into the highlands. The winding roads offered a gentler start than the epic passes ahead, which was perfect for our youngest (age 10) to ease into life on two wheels.

Our destination: Ba Be National Park in Bắc Kạn province — a natural wonder of lakes, limestone karsts and verdant forest. The lake at the heart of the park is the largest natural freshwater lake in Vietnam.

Arriving mid-afternoon, we cruised along peaceful roads set beside rice paddies, small ethnic-minority villages, and occasional rivers. The guide pointed out traditional Tay stilt-houses, and the atmosphere shifted from ‘tour’ to ‘adventure’.

At the lakeside homestay, the kids were thrilled: WOW, we’re in the woods, on a boat tomorrow! Meanwhile, the grown-ups soaked in the calm water reflections, towering limestone peaks and the “wow factor” of the place.

Day 2: Exploring Ba Be & Khuoi Khon Village

After a traditional breakfast of sticky rice and local coffee, we jumped on our bikes for a scenic ride to nearby Khuoi Khon village. This slower pace day allowed us to pause frequently — stop for photos, let the kids splash in the stream, chat to a stilt-house family about how they fish with long narrow boats.

Back at Ba Be, we took a boat ride on the lake, gliding past jungle-clad cliffs, caves (including the famous Puông Cave) and islands. One of the best bits: the children pointing out fish under the boat, and the silence of the early morning lake. The setting is described as tranquil and awe-inspiring.

Lunch was at a local homestay – bamboo-cooked rice (com làm), wild vegetables, lightly smoked fish from the lake. Afterwards, some of the family went on a short jungle walk, past waterfalls and into the forest. We learned about the Tay community’s relationship with the land – their boats, their farming, and their stories.

That evening around the fire we reflected as a family: “We came here for the ride, but we’re staying for this place.”

Day 3: Setting Off to the Highlands – Khuoi Khon to Dong Van

Today we mounted our bikes early, packed up and headed toward the highlands of Dong Van Karst Plateau in Ha Giang province, via the scenic roads of northern Vietnam. The ride started fairly gentle — mountain fringes, valleys, green hills — but gradually the elevation and bends increased and so did our excitement.

The plateau is a rugged region of limestone peaks 1,000-1,600 m above sea level, covering thousands of square kilometres. As we climbed, the landscape shifted: higher ridges, sharper turns, deeper valleys, and the occasional vista that made us pull over and gape.

Along the way, our guide pointed out the ethnic villages — H’Mong, Tay, Dao — each with their own little stilt-houses, terraced fields and mountain crops. The kids likened the ride to a roller-coaster through clouds. We made stops at viewpoint decks, snapped photos of the terraced rice fields winding down the slopes, and let the kids breathe fresh mountain air and run around.

After lunch in a small hillside town, we pressed on to Dong Van, arriving early afternoon and checked into a guest-house. The view from our room looked straight into the geo-plateau ridges. Evening brought a stroll through the old town, dinner of northern-style noodle soup and local beer for the adults.

Day 4: Dong Van, Ma Pi Lêng Pass & Ha Giang Town

Day 4 had one of the highlights: the Ma Pi Lêng Pass — famed as one of the most spectacular passes in Vietnam, part of the Dong Van plateau route. Many motorbike tours call it a “must-ride” segment of the north.

The morning ride was thrilling: hairpin bends, sheer drops, and the kids hanging on tight (and laughing) as we wound our way along the pass. The guide slowed us down around the sharpest sections and made sure the kids had breaks. It was challenging, yes, but safe and exhilarating.

At the summit lookout we all stepped off our bikes, took deep breaths and gazed at the river snaking far below. A family selfie. A moment to remember.

We then rode down toward Ha Giang town for a restful afternoon. The pace slowed. We let the kids roam the market, sample grilled corn, sticky-rice snacks and bartered silly trinkets. For us, the warmth of the local people, the remote beauty and the sense of “we’re really somewhere else” sunk in.

That evening we gathered as a family to talk about our favourite moments so far. The clear answer: the cliff-edge ride and the lake still fighting for top-spot.

Day 5 – Ha Giang to Pan Hou: Into the Hidden Valleys

We left Ha Giang under a soft morning mist. The road wound through valleys dotted with tea plantations and villages, where schoolchildren waved as we passed. Our guide Phu—known for his calm precision—set an easy rhythm, ensuring everyone stayed comfortable on the curves. The day’s destination: Pan Hou Village Eco-Resort, an oasis surrounded by forested hills.

The Pan Hou area lies within the Hoang Su Phi district, famous for its ancient terraced rice fields. Some of these terraces are hundreds of years old, carved into the hillsides by generations of La Chi and Dao farmers. As we climbed higher, the views became a painter’s dream — layer upon layer of rice steps glimmering in soft gold.

Arriving at Pan Hou, we checked into wooden lodges built in harmony with the landscape. The kids raced to the small hot-spring stream that runs behind the resort. Parents soaked their feet, while Phu shared stories about local festivals and how the resort partners with nearby ethnic communities to sustain the environment. It was a restful evening — the kind of mountain quiet you can actually hear.

Day 6 – Pan Hou to Bac Ha: Across the Roof of the North

The morning sun broke through fog as we geared up. The road from Pan Hou toward Bac Ha is one of northern Vietnam’s hidden gems, a combination of sealed mountain roads and twisting ridgelines that open onto wide horizons. This was the day the whole family truly felt like explorers.

Around midday, we stopped at a Dao village market. Women in indigo and red embroidery sold herbal teas, woven scarves, and mountain honey. Our kids tried on the colourful hats, giggling as the locals fussed over them. It was spontaneous and heartwarming.

After lunch we continued westward, descending into Bac Ha — a lively highland town in Lao Cai province. Known for its weekend market and cool climate, Bac Ha sits at around 1,000 m elevation, surrounded by corn fields and plum orchards. The ride into town was breathtaking: green valleys giving way to open plateaus where buffalo grazed under vast skies.

Our homestay that night overlooked a patchwork of fields. The host family served grilled pork, fresh bamboo shoots, and their own rice wine. The evening turned into music and laughter when Phu pulled out a small speaker and local friends joined with a bamboo flute. A memorable cultural exchange, spontaneous and genuine.

Day 7 – Bac Ha Market and the Final Ride to Lao Cai

Sunday morning meant market day. Bac Ha’s market is one of Vietnam’s most colourful — a meeting point for Flower Hmong, Nung, Tay, and Phu La people who travel from miles around. We arrived early, helmets off, cameras out, and senses on high alert. The explosion of colours, textures, and sounds was unforgettable.

The kids were fascinated by the animal market — buffalo, ponies, and even pigs neatly tethered under tarps. The adults wandered through textile stalls and spice alleys. Phu explained that many of the patterns in Hmong embroidery represent stories of migration and family, each motif passed down generations.

By late morning we were back on the bikes heading for Lao Cai city. The ride down from Bac Ha dropped nearly 1,000 m in altitude, following mountain streams and bamboo forests before joining the Red River valley. The sense of descent—both literal and emotional—was profound: after days in remote mountains, the border city felt almost urban.

In the afternoon, Phu led us to the Lao Cai – Hekou International Border Gate. Standing on the Red River bridge, we could see China just across the water. The kids loved spotting trucks moving between the two countries, while we marvelled at how far we’d come — more than 1,200 kilometres through some of Vietnam’s most beautiful landscapes.

Day 8 – Return to Hanoi by Train: Reflections and Farewell

Our final morning started quietly. Breakfast near the station, goodbyes to the bikes that had become part of the family, and warm hugs for Phu and the Cuong’s crew. The overnight train from Lao Cai back to Hanoi felt almost luxurious — a gentle rocking rhythm after eight days of winding mountain roads.

We spent the train ride recounting highlights: swimming in Ba Be Lake, crossing Ma Pi Lêng Pass, soaking in hot springs at Pan Hou, and haggling at Bac Ha market. Each moment stitched into memory, a mosaic of landscapes and laughter.

Arriving in Hanoi the next morning, the city felt both familiar and completely new. We’d seen Vietnam from the inside out — not through windows, but from the open air of a motorbike seat, close enough to smell the rice, the rain, and the mountain mist.

Why Choose Cuong’s Motorbike Adventure

Cuong’s Motorbike Adventure stands apart for its authenticity and safety focus. Founded by Cuong Nguyen — Vietnam’s most experienced motorbike tour operator and mechanical expert — the company specializes in routes few outsiders reach. Phu, our guide, combined mechanical skill, local knowledge, and humour that made every day run smoothly.

The company’s fleet includes Honda CRF 250/300 cc bikes and automatic scooters, all meticulously maintained. They tailor tours for all levels: solo adventurers, seasoned riders, and families like ours. Their itineraries balance adventure and comfort — scenic riding, cultural encounters, clean homestays, and support vehicles for luggage.

Beyond the logistics, Cuong’s team emphasize respect for local communities. Each overnight stop partners with village families, sharing tourism benefits while keeping traditions alive. That ethos — adventure with integrity — resonated deeply with us.

Travel Tips for Families Considering This Route

  • Choose the right season: March–May and September–November offer the best weather and visibility. Avoid the heavy summer rains if possible.
  • Stay flexible: In the mountains, weather can shift quickly. Trust your guide’s decisions about timing or detours.
  • Comfort counts: Good riding gear for kids is worth it. Cuong’s team helps with fitting and safety checks.
  • Keep it slow: Family touring isn’t a race; enjoy the scenery and village life.
  • Support locals: Buy handmade souvenirs directly from artisans in villages rather than big markets.

The Journey’s End

Every trip has an end, but this one left an afterglow. The northern mountains gave us adventure, but also patience, humility, and laughter. As we scrolled through our photos weeks later, it struck us: the journey had become part of our family story.

If you ever dreamed of combining exploration with family bonding, consider the mountains of northern Vietnam — and let Cuong’s Motorbike Adventure guide the way.

Written by a travelling family, in partnership with Cuong’s Motorbike Adventure.